Can't live without the surf

I thought at first that football was my dream.

I played day and night, impersonating players left and right.

But after my first time on a surfboard, I was hooked.

The thrill, the fun, the agility, the peace of mind; this is what pulled me in.

The lessons brought are not to be forgotten.

I matured, learned respect and began to blossom.

There was something exhilarating in channeling nature’s energy and using that as a joy ride while sharing this with friends and family.

It helped me establish relationships.

It helped me build a bond between nature and myself.

It told me to breathe in every day and not to waste it.

I’m in a euphoric state of mind out in the water, even if it is cold.

Some people even tell be that surfing is bold.

Surfing has challenged me and made me a better person.

It’s taught me ups and downs.

It’s taught me that this is the place where happiness can be found.

I can’t imagine not being able to surf,

Perhaps I could have been a star of the turf.

I realize now that surfing is the one thing I can’t live without,

And that surfing, its lessons are what it’s all about.