Nothing like surfing

Nothing like surfing

 

What a nice feeling to wake up early

Put your wetsuit on

Have some breakfast

Call your friends an tell them “Waves are firing, what are you waiting”

 

You take out your magic board

You grab some wax and go left right, left, right, left, right

Then you go up and down, up and down, up and down.

And you are good to go

 

You then paddle out.

Your body feels fine

Duck dive the amount of waves necessary to get to the lineup

And prepare for you first ride.

 

You look to the horizon and see your wave.

It is big so you have to be brave.

You paddle hard, try to stand up

But you fail. 

What a wipeout you just had.

 

You breath and go on to try again

Paddle your second wave

Stand up and late drop

But manage to stay near the wall.

 

You pump your board through the wave,

BOOM, you perform a huge snap.

You keep accelerating,

BOOM, you make a huge full rotation and land successfully.

 

Then you decide to stall

And quickly get into the tube

With a huge smile on your face

The barrel si like any other place

 

Celso Garcia 11ºB