One Ride

Chasing the 

stoke

waves growing larger

Weekend

 warriors

still on the beach

Destiny 

calling

mortality daring

Odds 

go to hell

above twenty feet

Dropping 

into

the thunder

The spray

to the 

heavens

Darkness

envelops

one prayer to beseech

The sound

of a 

monster

The 

howl 

of its fury

But nowhere

 on earth

—would I rather be

(California Surf: December, 2023)