Passion

Even though I don't live next to an ocean I could always try to find a way to get to the water. I could be like a bird and fly there, or be a fish and find a way to swim to the ocean, or I can be the water so I never would have to leave. No matter what I do, I always want there to be a way for me to get to the ocean. I remember when I was away from the water for over a year. I felt as if I would die. I would lie in my room and never come out because I was dead without the ocean. Once I finally was allowed to go to a beach, I sprinted as if I have never sprinted before to get in the water and start doing what I love. Surfing. That is my passion. I didn't ever think of surfing as a sport I would be involved in until I tried it, and I am so glad I did. Now as I look back to when I was a kid I can understand why I didn’t love the ocean as much as I do now. It is because I never tried surfing. In the ocean alone it feels as if I am in the heart of it all. Whenever I am surfing in the ocean I feel that nothing else matters to me. I forget that I am a human teenager who has to go back to school once I get home and that I don’t get to stay in the ocean forever. I become one with the ocean when I am out there. Without being on my board in the water, I feel as if I have an empty hole in my heart.