surf
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Catching the first wave of the day
A feeling that makes me wanting more
Beating friends to the next tunnel
and getting in the middle of a misty spitter
The sun peaks perfectly through a gap in the mountain side,
illuminating the rising and falling tide that leaves a puff of mist on the shore,
Fishy colors, trippy pattern, new skin, same goddess dubbed hippie
My wetsuit warms me, colors me, and delights me while a bait ball swarms below me
The wall of the wave comes powering forward from a small distance
My heart races with beat of my stroke as I paddle into a good position
Paddling so hard
from the water wall behind.
Too slow and i fall.
Then I tumble and I roll
to submerge to the unknown.
